Leisure: pizza and food, markets, seafront, Napoli football, evenings

Food and markets

Pizza — margherita and marinara in the historic pizzerias of the centre and Forcella, folded "a portafoglio" at fried-food shops — is the identity dish: the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo has been on UNESCO's intangible heritage list since 2017. Then the cuoppo of fried food, pasta and potatoes with provola, Sunday ragù, genovese, spaghetti with clams, baccalà, and in pastry the sfogliatella (riccia and frolla), babà, pastiera at Easter, struffoli at Christmas. Coffee at the counter is a ritual, with the tradition of the "caffè sospeso" paid forward.

Markets: the Pignasecca (the oldest, food, between Montesanto and Toledo), Porta Nolana (fish, near the station), Antignano in Vomero, the Poggioreale market for clothing and shoes, and the San Gregorio Armeno stalls for nativity figures.

Sea and parks

The seafront from Castel dell'Ovo to Mergellina is pedestrian and used all year for running, walking and swimming off the rocks in the warm months; in Posillipo you go down to Marechiaro, the Gaiola (marine protected area, limited access) and the Riva Fiorita beach clubs; Bagnoli has a stretch of beach under redevelopment. For real beaches, go to Pozzuoli, Miseno or the islands.

The Real Bosco di Capodimonte is the city's great public park, free, with the museum; Parco Virgiliano in Posillipo has terraces overlooking the gulf; the Villa Comunale in Chiaia and the Floridiana in Vomero are historic gardens; the Botanical Garden belongs to the university.

Sport

SSC Napoli play at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona in Fuorigrotta, reached by Line 2 (Campi Flegrei) and the Cumana (Mostra); matches move the whole city and wins are celebrated in the streets. Basketball and water polo (Posillipo, Canottieri) have a tradition; sailing and rowing have historic clubs in Santa Lucia and Mergellina. The Mostra d'Oltremare hosts pools and sports facilities.

Evenings and free things

Evening areas: the "baretti" of Chiaia (vico Belledonne, via Bisignano), piazza Bellini and the old centre (students, live music), the seafront, Vomero for quieter bars; Bagnoli and Coroglio for clubs. The Teatro San Carlo has an opera and ballet season with low-cost tickets for young people too.

Free: the Capodimonte woods, the seafront, the view from Castel Sant'Elmo on free-entry days and from the San Martino belvedere, the churches of the centre, first Sundays of the month at state museums, neighbourhood festivals and the fireworks of San Gennaro and Piedigrotta.